Via Carota

Starred review from August 1, 2022
With the mission “to transport” readers to “another place and time, where we have breathed in the rustic beauty and uncomplicated flavors,” chefs Williams and Sodi deliver a swoon-worthy collection of dishes from their distinctive New York City restaurant. The recipes—mostly simple, plainly stated, and vegetable forward—capture the essence of their culinary experience in Italy. The dishes are organized by season and are further subdivided by main ingredient, which is helpful for home cooks looking for meal ideas based on what they’ve got in the pantry. The chefs elevate their selections with small touches, such as the crunch of spring onion and celery in panzanella and a warm honey syrup drizzled over an olive oil cake. Perhaps the best example of this is Via Carota’s signature insalata verde, a piled-high mix of soft, peppery, and lacy greens whose vinaigrette is a balanced blend that employs a bit of warm water to help it emulsify (“It’s a favorite. Enough said”). Even the more luxurious plates of lobster with fresh tomatoes and spaghetti, and a 10-layer cacio e pepe lasagna, are accessible thanks to clear directions and helpful tips. Glimpses of their operation come to life in casual notes, such as describing how tomatoes ripen on a tall rack in the kitchen, and in handsome photography, with images showing how crocks of citrus perfume the dining room in winter months. This is sure to please lovers of Italian food and initiate even more pilgrimages to its namesake eatery.